Canestrelli: the best shortbread cookie

by Cristina Colli

If I had to define these cookies with just one word, it would be “sublime”.

With their  melt-in-your-mouth sandy texture,  rich taste of butter and  delicate flavour of vanilla, these are the best shortbread cookies ever. If you’re looking for the ultimate shortbread cookie recipe, I suggest  you give Canestrelli a try.

Canestrelli are daisy-shaped shortbread cookies typical of Liguria, in Northern Italy; you can find many different recipes on-line, all using a combination of flour, butter, sugar and eggs. This recipe, however, is different because it uses boiled egg yolks. And that’s what intrigued me most when I first saw the recipe on the Italian food blog Menta e Cioccolato, about a year ago.

I consulted my sister-in-law, who loves experimenting as much as I do, about the egg thing.

“Have you ever tried making shortbread cookies using boiled egg yolks?” I asked.

“No I haven’t…I’ve seen recipes that use boiled egg yolks, but I’ve never tried any of them.” she answered.

“Boiled egg yolks…sounds weird, doesn’t it? I wonder what the cookies taste like…” I said. I bookmarked the recipe  in my  “To try” folder, and forgot about it.

Fast forward to a couple of months ago, when I finally gave in to curiosity and dared to try the recipe.

I baked a small batch, using only one egg yolk,  in case I didn’t like the cookies and had to bin them. The recipe recommends eating the cookies a day after they’ve been baked, so I stored them in a tin box.

The following day, soon after I’d dusted the cookies with icing sugar, my husband grabbed one and ate it.

“These are fantastic!!! Why did you make so few of them?” he asked.

Why, indeed? So I baked another batch, this time using the whole recipe :)

Tips & Notes:

  • To boil the egg yolks, you can either boil whole eggs, then discard the boiled egg white (use it to make egg salad), or you can boil the egg yolks separately and use the egg whites to make other sweets, like these ones, or an omelette. To boil only the egg yolks: bring water to the boil in a small pan. Separate the egg yolks from the egg whites, then place the egg yolks gently into the boiling water using a spoon. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and let cool.
  • To make the hole in the middle of the cookie, I used the cap of a marker (washed first!). To avoid the dough clogging the cap, place a piece of cling film slightly larger than the cookie cutter over the cookie, then cut the hole. The dough from the hole, wrapped in cling film, will still get inside the cap, but you can easily pull it off and set it aside with the other scraps of dough.
  • After cutting cookies, you’ll have some leftover scraps of dough. Press them all together, place them between two pieces of cling film and roll them into a disk. Refrigerate for at least half an hour (or pop them into the freezer for 10 minutes) then cut more cookies out of the dough and bake them.
  • These cookies improve with time, and are best eaten at least a day after they’ve been baked. If you can, leave them in their box for a week before eating. They’re supposed to keep for a month, but I can’t vouch for this – they never last that long!

Canestrelli

(makes about 35 cookies)

180 gr. unsalted butter, cold (6.4 oz.)

75 gr. icing (confectioner) sugar (2.7 oz)

150 gr. plain (all purpose) flour (5.3 oz.)

150 gr. potato flour (5.3 oz.)

3 egg yolks from medium eggs, hard-boiled

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Icing sugar to dust

  • In a large bowl, mix butter, cut in small pieces, with sugar, salt and vanilla extract using a fork or wooden spoon.
  • Press the egg yolks through a fine-mesh strainer and pour over the butter and sugar mix, then beat until well combined. Don’t skip the egg-straining, or you’ll end up with lumps of egg yolk in your dough.
  • In a bowl mix the two flours with a whisk, then quickly incorporate them to the butter mix, taking care not to overwork (and warm) the dough.
  • Sandwich the dough between two pieces of cling film, or parchment paper, then pat flat into a disk and chill in the fridge for 1 hour.
  • Preheat the oven to 160° C (320° F). Roll the dough, still sandwiched between the two pieces of cling film, to 1 cm thickness (about 3/8 inch), and cut the cookies with a flower-shaped cookie cutter about 5 cm wide (slightly less than 2 inches).
  • To make the hole in the middle, I used the cap of a marker (washed first!). To avoid the dough clogging the cap, place a piece of cling film slightly larger than the cookie cutter over the cookie, then cut the hole. The dough from the hole, wrapped in cling film, will still get inside the cap, but you can easily pull it off and set it aside with the other scraps of dough.
  • Place the cookies on baking trays lined with parchment paper and bake for 18-20 minutes – they must stay pale.
  • Let the cookies (which will be very fragile) cool on the tray for 5 minutes, then carefully transfer onto a wire rack until completely cool.
  • Dust with icing sugar, then store in a tin box or airtight container in a dark, cool place (not in the fridge).

Recipe slightly adapted from Morena – Menta e Cioccolato.

ü After cutting cookies, you’ll have some leftover scraps of dough. Press them all together, place them between two pieces of cling film and roll them into a disk. Refrigerate for at least half an hour (or pop them into the freezer for 10 minutes) then cut more cookies out of the dough and bake them.

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{ 21 comments }

Paolo Valteroni December 3, 2010 at 21:07

Sublime? I’d say they are Godly Food

Cristina Colli December 4, 2010 at 12:11

Well I know how much you like them…I’ll have to bake more I guess :)

Morena December 4, 2010 at 10:40

Grazie Cristina per la Mail..questi canestrelli ti sono venuti benissimo, presentazione molto molto Elegante..Brava!

Mi piace molto la finezza del Blog..complimenti!
ciao Morena

Thanks for the email Cristina…your canestrelli turned out very well, presentation is very, very elegant…Brava!
I really like the fineness of your blog…congratulations!
Ciao Morena

Cristina Colli December 4, 2010 at 12:21

Grazie Morena!!!! :)

Thank you Morena!!!! :)

diana December 8, 2010 at 08:19

Oh YUM. I am printing it out. This is perfect – the most wonderful type of sweet – simple and elegant. I am too curious not to try.

Cristina Colli December 8, 2010 at 11:29

You won’t be disappointed Diana, these are fantastic! I had to hide the box in a place difficult to reach, because they’re addictive too…

Iris December 17, 2010 at 21:58

This is by far one of the most beautiful and inspiring sites i have have come across for some time – recipes are amazing. Cristina thank you for sharing you gift – beautiful. What a lovely way to touch people!

Cristina Colli December 19, 2010 at 20:14

Iris, thank you so much for your kind, warm words. I’m so happy to know that you find inspiration in my blog, and that you like the recipes. Thanks for finding the time to let me know :)

oh January 2, 2011 at 16:01

They look yummy. i can’t buy potato flour here, Can I use plain flour instead of potato flour? thank you.

Cristina Colli January 2, 2011 at 16:24

Hi!
Potato flour helps to give the cookies a melt-in-your-mouth, sandy texture. If you cannot find it, you could substitute it with cornflour (corn starch). If you cannot find that either, you can use plain flour, but the cookies will be slightly harder…they should taste good any way though :)

oh January 4, 2011 at 15:15

thank you so much…i will try to make it with cornflour hopefully it will have some sandy texture. Do you think it’s ok to add some oatmeal as well?

Cristina Colli January 4, 2011 at 18:07

No, I wouldn’t add oatmeal to this recipe. I think the cookies are too delicate – both in taste and texture – for oatmeal.

oh January 7, 2011 at 13:02

finally i got potato starch and made it yesterday. The test was great and i love the sandy texture but they are so fragile…they became pieces when i touched..What went wrong!

Cristina Colli January 7, 2011 at 16:10

Mmm…it’s true that the cookies are delicate, but I never had your problem…please make sure to:
- roll dough to right thickness (1 cm – 3/8 inch); if you roll it too thin, the cookies will be too fragile;
- let the cookies cool on the tray for 5 minutes, then use a palette knife to carefully transfer onto a wire rack until completely cool.
The last step is particularly important; if you handle the cookies as soon as you take them out of the oven, they’ll be too fragile and break into pieces…
If you follow the instructions exactly and you still have problems, try reducing the potato flour: 100 gr potato flour and 200 gr of plain flour.
Hope this helps!

oh January 9, 2011 at 04:32

thank you so much, i will try it again

Laurie December 17, 2011 at 17:16

Hi. Just came across your recipe. Do you use potato starch or potato flour? They are not the same.
Thanks!

Cristina Colli December 18, 2011 at 16:43

Hi Laurie, I use potato flour.

Germane August 6, 2011 at 01:19

Hi Cristina, thanks for sharing this recipe! Just wondering, when you say boil the egg yolks, did you mean soft-boil or hard boil? Also, how would you know when the cookies are done? Hope you can help :)

Cristina Colli August 6, 2011 at 10:56

Hi Germane!
- eggs need to be hard-boiled; if you check my tips and notes and boil only the egg yolks for 5 minutes, they’ll be the right consistency; if you hard-boil the whole eggs, they’ll have to boil for 7 to 8 minutes.
- about baking time: baking time can vary a lot depending on your oven; my oven, for example, is kind of “slow” and doesn’t heat up much, so it takes the whole 20 minutes to bake these cookies; my mother’s oven heats up a lot more quickly, so she usually has to shorten the baking time of any cake or cookie she bakes; she would bake these for just 17-18 minutes…. What I usually do when I try a recipe for the first time is bake a few cookies as a test – say 6 or 7 cookies.
It’s hard to tell when these cookies are really done because they don’t change colour that much and have to stay pale in colour (if they become golden at the edges, you overbaked them!). So you have to know your oven, and to be sure you can do a test according to your oven (just remember to let the cookies sit until completely cold or they’ll crumble!).

Hayley Giuliani December 19, 2011 at 14:59

Hi Cristina,

Thank you for sharing your recipe. I really love your pics for your blog. I’m not sure what I did wrong….I followed the recipe exactly as above ( I even went to walmart and purchased a scale to measure all ingredients in exact ounces.) Anyway my cookies are terrible! The flavor is really off and they are so dry I can barely swallow them. I even bought new cookie sheets and made sure they stayed pale…but they almost seem raw inside still? As well I couldn’t get 35 cookies out of the batch only 20? I’m not sure what I did but any advice would be great because they “look” delicious they just taste awful : (

Thank you,
Hayley

Cristina Colli December 19, 2011 at 17:32

Hi Hayley
I’m sorry your cookies didn’t turn out well…I made them so many times and they were always delicious…
About the taste – don’t eat them warm. Make sure to let them cool completely; they’re actually better the day after they’ve been made, and they improve with time.
Also make sure to let the dough rest in the fridge for at least an hour (possibly more). Once you’ve cut the cookies, take all the scraps, press together, pat in a disk and put back in the fridge for at least 30 minutes (or in the freezer for 10 minutes). This way I get 30-35 cookies, but it also depends on how big is your cookie cutter.
Baking is very important and it always depends on your oven. My old oven took ages to bake, so I had to bake everything for a longer time. The oven I have now is fan assisted and heats up very quickly, and I had to change all the temperatures & baking times of all my favourite recipes! I suggest you do a test with just 5 or 6 cookies, and then adjust baking time accordingly.
These cookies shouldn’t be dry, but they have a sandy texture.
I hope this helps, good luck for next time!

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